The Book of Kells Experiences

The Book of Kells is one of the most famous and intricate examples of medieval illuminated manuscripts. This exquisitely decorated copy of the four Gospels of the New Testament (Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John) is written in Latin and is believed to have been created around 800 AD, though some scholars suggest it may have been started earlier.

The Book of Kells is currently housed at Trinity College in Dublin, Ireland, where it is on permanent display. Due to its delicate nature, the manuscript is kept in a controlled environment, with only a few pages displayed to the public at a time, which are periodically turned.

Trinity College is currently hosting "The Book of Kells Experience" on campus, a popular attraction that draws a large number of tourists daily. The experience begins at the Old Library, where visitors first enter an exhibit detailing facts about the book, including its illumination and artwork, script, materials, and history. (See some of the photos I took in the exhibit area.)

Afterward, we enter the room where the Book of Kells is kept. The manuscript is displayed in a glass case in a very dimly lit room. Photography is not allowed.

Following this, we proceed to the Long Room. Most of the books have been removed from the Long Room for restoration, except for the first two rows upon entering the room.

After visiting the Long Room, we exit the library building and walk into a tent set up across the way. Here, we are shown a 360-degree film related to the historical stories of the Book of Kells.

From the Exhibit Room

The Long Room

Proclamation of the Irish Republic

Gaia

The Brian Bor Harp

About the Book of Kells

Illumination and Artwork: The Book of Kells is renowned for its elaborate and detailed illustrations, which include intricate interlacing patterns, mythical creatures, and symbolic representations of the evangelists (Matthew as a man, Mark as a lion, Luke as a calf, and John as an eagle). The colors are vibrant, and the level of detail is astonishing, considering the tools and materials available at the time.

Script: The text is written in a style known as "insular script," which was used by monks in the British Isles. The script is highly stylized, with the letters often intertwined with the artwork, making the text itself a part of the visual experience.

Materials: The manuscript is made of vellum, which is a type of parchment made from calfskin. The pigments used for the illustrations were derived from a variety of sources, including minerals and plants.

History: The origins of the Book of Kells are somewhat mysterious, but it is generally believed to have been created by monks in a monastery on the island of Iona, off the coast of Scotland. The book was likely brought to the monastery of Kells in Ireland following a Viking raid, hence its name.

Relates to the Book of Kells Experience:

Trinity College Dublin

Before I came to Dublin, I researched online and learned that Trinity College is the oldest college in Ireland, steeped in history, and home to the Book of Kells. Its central location made it an ideal place for me to stay. On the way there, the taxi driver informed me that it is still a functional college, even though it is open to tourists.

During my stay, the only students I noticed were playing tennis on the court right under my window. Each day, there were large groups of tourists on campus for tours, with the Book of Kells Experience being the main attraction.

Only in the early morning did I find the campus quiet and empty, allowing me to take some photos in peace. Here are some photos taken both with and without tourists.  Unfortunately, right now its center piece, the iconic bell tower Campanile is under scaffolding.

The campus is quite small; it takes less than 10 minutes to walk from the main entrance to one end, and another 10 minutes to walk around and back.

Bridges over the River Liffey in Dublin

Over the course of one day (early morning to sunset hours) I walked along the River Liffey to photography Dublin's many bridges. Here are 14 bridges that I have photographed.  Enjoy!  

1. Samuel Beckett Bridge - A modern, cable-stayed bridge designed by Santiago Calatrava, resembling a harp, which is a symbol of Ireland.

2. Ha'penny Bridge (Liffey Bridge) - A famous pedestrian bridge dating back to 1816, known for its unique curved design.

3. O'Connell Bridge - A wide road bridge that connects O'Connell Street to D'Olier Street and the south side of the city.

4. James Joyce Bridge - Another bridge designed by Santiago Calatrava, named after the famous Irish writer James Joyce.

5. Millennium Bridge - A pedestrian bridge opened in 1999 to mark the new millennium.

6, Loopline Bridge - a Railway bridge 

7. Talbot Memorial Bridge - A road bridge named in honor of Irish nationalist Matt Talbot.

8. Rosie Hackett Bridge - A relatively new bridge opened in 2014, named after labor activist Rosie Hackett.

9. Grattan Bridge (Essex Bridge) - A road bridge connecting Capel Street to Parliament Street.

10. Rory O'More Bridge - A road bridge that connects Ellis Quay on the north side to Victoria Quay on the south side.

11. Father Mathew Bridge (Dublin Bridge) - A road bridge originally constructed in 1818, known for its three arches.

12. Mellows Bridge (Queen Maeve Bridge) - The oldest surviving bridge across the Liffey, dating back to 1768.

13. Seán O'Casey Bridge - A pedestrian swing bridge named after the famous Irish playwright Seán O'Casey.

14. O'Donovan Rossa Bridge - The bridge was renamed O'Donovan Rossa Bridge in 1923, in honor of Jeremiah O'Donovan Rossa, an Irish Fenian leader and nationalist who was deeply involved in the struggle for Irish independence.

Dublin Impressions and Experiences

I had no idea what to expect from Dublin—I could hardly imagine. Before visiting, all I knew was that Dublin is famous for its Guinness beer, so I pictured a city full of places to drink it.

On the ride from the airport to Trinity College, as we approached the city, I noticed that the houses we passed looked dark, old, and quite shabby. I mentioned my impression to the taxi driver, who agreed. He explained that the city intentionally maintains this appearance to preserve its historical charm. Interestingly, the taxi driver was from Turkey, an immigrant to Ireland.

As we neared downtown Dublin, the buildings no longer appeared old and shabby but rather grand. I noticed the abundance of double-decker buses on the roads. As the days passed, I realized that Dublin is smaller compared to other European cities I had just visited (like Oslo and Helsinki), yet it seemed to have more buses than any other city. The buses were constantly on the move, sharing the roads with trams and pedestrians, with many streets lined with train tracks. The streets were narrow, mostly no more than two lanes.

During my stay, I was lodged at Trinity College, right in the heart of "Old Dublin" downtown. Stepping out into the city center, I was struck by the sheer number of tourists. The narrow streets made the density of people feel even more intense. Everywhere I went, the streets were crowded with tourists.

I was surprised by the number of bars and restaurants—literally every corner had one, offering all kinds of alcohol. Many of them had live music playing even during the day. I visited two bars that featured traditional Irish music played on the fiddle and banjo.

The most famous bar in Dublin is Temple Bar. To avoid the crowds and have a better chance for photos, I visited in the morning. I imagined that in the evening, it would be nearly impossible to take decent pictures with the crowds and loud music, so this turned out to be a smart move. Even at 11 am, there were still quite a few people drinking beer and enjoying some live music. I told the bartender it was a bit early for me to drink, but I’d like to take some photos—they smiled and welcomed me.

Temple Bar is famous for a reason. Once inside, I realized there were multiple rooms with different bars, each uniquely decorated. I can imagine it’s a cozy place to meet friends for drinks and listen to music.

One late evening (on the third day), I was trying to find a place to eat, but most bars and restaurants were packed with people drinking massive amounts of beer. I’m not sure if it was because it was a Saturday, but most places stopped serving meals by 10 pm, including the convenience stores.

Speaking of convenience stores, there were many throughout the city where you could buy food, snacks, and some groceries. Some even sold alcohol.

Like other European cities, Dublin has its share of churches, cathedrals, castles, and museums to explore. I visited Dublin Castle, but I didn’t find it particularly exceptional compared to other castles I’ve seen. For me, the most impressive experience was visiting the old library at Trinity College to see the Book of Kells. To do so, you must purchase a ticket for The Book of Kells Experience. It’s better to buy it online to avoid the long queue at the entrance.

According to the taxi driver, the Irish are known for their love of beer and drink a lot of it. When I asked if drinking and driving was an issue, he said no because there are very strict laws against it.

Dublin is very colorful! The old town’s hip bars and Irish pubs were all beautifully decorated with flowers and murals. I enjoyed photographing them, as well as the many doors and windows.

Lastly, I enjoyed walking along the River Liffey and photographing the many bridges that cross it. I walked as much as I could to visit as many bridges as possible, capturing them in the morning, daytime, and afternoon for the best shots. All the bridges are short and easily walkable.

During my visit, I also took a day trip to the Cliffs of Moher and the city of Galway, which I’ll write about in another post.

Overall, Dublin is a popular tourist destination—a fun and vibrant international city. I enjoyed my visit very much. However, note that it’s also an expensive place to visit. For example, my stay cost almost twice as much as my stay in Tallinn and Helsinki, and the food and grocery costs are comparable.

The weather in August was very pleasant, with sunny days interspersed with periods of rain and wind.

Lastly, when flying from Dublin Airport to the U.S., be prepared for long lines at check-in, security, and passport control. However, the good news is that once you’ve completed these steps, there won’t be a passport check when you arrive in the U.S.